About Jaffna
Jaffna, the capital of Sri Lanka's Northern Province, is a city in remarkable revival. The end of Sri Lanka's civil war in 2009 reopened this ancient Tamil cultural centre to visitors for the first time in decades, revealing a destination of extraordinary historical depth and cultural richness that the rest of the island had almost forgotten.
The city's centrepiece is the Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil — a stunning golden-hued Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Murugan (Skanda), with a gopuram tower that dominates the Jaffna skyline. During the 25-day Nallur Festival (July–August), the kovil hosts one of the most spectacular religious celebrations in South Asia, drawing hundreds of thousands of devotees.
Beyond the city, the Jaffna Peninsula extends into a series of flat islands connected by causeways — Kayts, Karaitivu, Nainativu — each with its own temples, lagoons, and fishing communities. The cuisine of Jaffna, built on fresh seafood, palmyra jaggery, and distinctive spice blends, is categorically different from Sinhalese cooking and widely considered Sri Lanka's most interesting regional food culture.
Highlights
- Visit Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil — Jaffna's magnificent golden Hindu temple
- Walk across Elephant Pass — the historic causeway to the peninsula
- Explore Jaffna Fort — a Dutch sea fortress overlooking the lagoon
- Take a boat to Nainativu Island and the Nagapooshani Ambal Temple
- Eat Jaffna-style crab curry and palmyra toddy at local restaurants
- Drive the island circuit — Kayts, Karaitivu, and the flat lagoon landscapes
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What to See & Do
Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
Jaffna's defining landmark — a magnificent golden-hued Dravidian-style Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Murugan. The 25-day Nallur Festival (July–August) draws hundreds of thousands of devotees and is one of South Asia's most spectacular religious events.
Elephant Pass
A narrow strip of land connecting the Jaffna Peninsula to the Sri Lanka mainland — historically a key military and commercial route. The salt flats, flamingos, and the sight of the road disappearing into the lagoon on both sides make it a striking landscape.
Jaffna Fort
A Portuguese-then-Dutch fortification overlooking the Jaffna Lagoon — one of the largest forts in Asia. The ramparts, bastions, and church ruins are being progressively restored, with sweeping views over the lagoon from the walls.
Nainativu Island & Nagapooshani Ambal Temple
A small island in the Jaffna Lagoon reached by a 30-minute boat ride from Kurikadduwan pier — home to the sacred Nagapooshani Ambal Kovil, an important Shakti temple where thousands of devotees make the sea pilgrimage.
Jaffna Public Library
One of South Asia's most significant libraries, rebuilt after its notorious destruction in 1981. The restored Moorish-style building is a symbol of the city's cultural renaissance and houses over 100,000 books.
Jaffna Cuisine Trail
Jaffna's food culture is categorically different from the rest of Sri Lanka — built on fresh palmyra toddy, Jaffna crab curry, mullet fish, goat and buffalo milk, and unique spice blends. Several restaurants around the market and Clock Tower Square are excellent.
Getting There from Colombo
FitsAir and SriLankan Airlines operate Colombo–Jaffna flights. Most convenient option for limited time.
Colombo Fort → Jaffna direct train (Yal Devi / Uttara Devi express). Overnight sleeper available.
Via A9 highway (Colombo → Kandy → Dambulla → Vavuniya → Jaffna). Long but feasible in a day.
The A9 Colombo–Jaffna road has been fully restored since 2009 — a scenic drive through the Cultural Triangle and dry north.
Best Time to Visit
July–August is the Nallur Festival season — spectacular but crowded. January–April is the dry season with ideal conditions.
Traveller Tips
- ▸The Nallur Festival runs 25 days in July–August — accommodation books out months ahead; plan accordingly
- ▸Hire a bicycle to explore the flat streets around the fort and kovil — roads are quiet and manageable
- ▸The Jaffna market area (Chundikuli and Main St) has excellent short-eat cafés serving unique northern breakfast dishes
- ▸Book the Nainativu boat from Kurikadduwan jetty early (7 AM departure) — ferries fill up by mid-morning
- ▸Photography inside the Nallur Kovil is restricted during active puja — ask before raising a camera
- ▸The drive across Elephant Pass to the mainland at sunset is one of Sri Lanka's most atmospheric journeys
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